UNDERBERG

Once a year, over 700 paddlers flock to Underberg to take part in the Hansa Powerade Drakensberg Challenge canoe race. It’s a 2 day river race over sixty five kilometers that is set in some of the world’s best scenery. I was lucky enough to cover the race for SAfm sport and I got to see what it takes to organize, take part in and enjoy the 2005 Drak Challenge.

But this is not about the race, which is for another place and another time, this is about the area.

The Umzimkulu starts high in the mountains and relies on the rainfall at any particular time of year for its strong flow. Winter snow melts and creates that season’s flow and the summer rain of Underberg makes the Umzimkulu come down in flood many times a year. It is not the largest of rivers but what it lacks in size is made up for in just about every other area. The water is crystal clear. Unlike other rivers that I saw in the area, there was no sediment from washed away banks or erosion. I was told that you could even drink the water if you wanted. Did I try? No.

Underberg is a small village that is experiencing some rapid growth. District roads are being tarred and this has helped the tourism in the area as one of the farmers was telling me. A few years ago, the Drakensberg Gardens hotel would be full over the weekend with hardy travelers in 4x4’s, daring the 30km road from the village into the mountains. Now, he told me, three busses drive in twice a week full of German tourists, who can now experience the majesty of the Southern Drakensberg.

And majestic is what they are. Day one of the Drak Challenge stated on the first bit of navigable section of the Umzimkulu. The drive on the newly tarred road was fantastic with the rally driver in me wanting to let loose. As we turned the final corner, the mists lifted and the mountains appeared and showed their entire early morning splendor. We drove into the mountains with the rising sun behind us and the colours were spectacular. But I get ahead of myself.

As a Jo’burg boy, it is quite a drive to Underberg and its surrounds. If you obey all the speed limits and add a bit on for good measure, it’s at least a five hour drive. From Durban, it is just under 2 hours. Once you hit Hilton, turn off the N3 highway and make your way deep into the Southern Drakensberg along a rather scenic road that winds through local farm land, rural communities and small villages. Make sure you have enough in your gas tank before you make the turn though, the next filling station is a long way away.

More than likely, when you get into Underberg, it will be cloudy, especially if you get there in a summer afternoon. The heat of the day forces the humid KwaZulu Natal air high up into the mountains and that only means one thing, rain. And what lovely rain it is. Watching a thunderstorm from the balcony of your bed and breakfast nook, overlooking the mountains of South Africa must compare to one of the all time best things to do in life. Scratch that, watching a thunderstorm at night is the best thing to do.

Underberg is famous for the Splashy Fen music festival, held on Splashy Fen farm. We stayed on a farm not far from there. Many farms now, because of the booming tourist trade, have created small, self-catering cottages for anything from two to ten people. The place we stayed was the old farm house with a couple off additions as the years had past. Log fire in the lounge, breakfast nook cum bar with a view of the mountains, microwave and all the other luxuries of a modern kitchen and even a quarter size snooker table. Power outages are common in the region and there was even a wood burning stove for those long cold nights with no electricity, which, let’s face it, is actually great.

Accommodation in the area ranges from rustic camping to five star hotels. The choices are endless and the best spot to find exactly what you are looking for is http://www.sanisaunter.com/ .

When you get there, what do you do? Now there lies the rub. If you can think it you can do it, except maybe going mall ratting and if you are in Underberg and you have the inclination to go mall ratting, then stop reading this now, close your web browser and sit in a dark room until I say you can come out, the men in white coats will be thee soon.

Bike rides, mountain hikes, fishing, canoeing, rafting, if you can dream it, you can do it. We went through the gorge of the mighty Umzimkulu below Underberg on two man inflatable rafts. It’s not exactly the Camel man stuff I was expecting but it still gets the heart pounding. The scenery is again like nothing else and you realize just how few people have been where you are. I like that.

A weekend doesn’t really justify a trip to the Southern Drakensberg and at least 3 nights should be spent in the area. The roads are not brilliant, especially if you decide to get off the district roads. My Fiat Palio took a bit of strain on the wet dirt roads but nothing too bad. All the locals own 4x4 type vehicles and if you have one, use it, the ride is just more comfortable.

Relax, unwind and absorb the mountain air of the Southern Drakensberg, you will not regret it.